A Truly Grand, Grand Finale

Monday July 11th, Hot Springs SD to Rapid City SD, 73 miles, 6400 feet of climbing

My last cycling day was  challenging, inspirational, and in the end, a bit emotional.  We pulled out of Hot Springs into a stiff headwind.  However, a front had come through the prior night and with it cooler temperatures. which were welcomed.  As a result of the winds and a number of steep, challenging climbs, I averaged only about 13 mph for the day, easily the slowest ride of the tour.  But no one cared because our efforts were so well rewarded.

Shortly after leaving Hot Springs we entered Wind Cave National Park where we got to see a number of prairie dog colonies.  My attempts at getting a decent photo of those rascals failed miserably.   Also sadly, the bison herd had decided to take the day off from encounters with cyclists.  After leaving the Park we had our first SAG in the town of Custer.  Leaving Custer we made steep ascents into and by the Crazy Horse Memorial and ultimately, the highlight, Mt. Rushmore.  Our views of Crazy Horse were limited as we weren't particularly interested in paying the admission to see the impressive, but still yet unfinished site.  However  our lucked changed dramatically as we finally ascended  into Mt. Rushmore and were able to park our bikes at the entrance and enter without charge.  All the riders who had never been there were quickly blown away by what they saw.  After we all snapped our requisite  individual  and collective photos we bought and enjoyed lunch there.  The day had perfect sun,  with moderate, even brisk temps.  Just a glorious time to be in the Park.  But alas, we had more work to do.  After a steep descent we had our second SAG in the nearby town of Keystone.  Then 20 more miles, including a couple additional tough climbs into Rapid City.  A truly memorable day on the bike.

Then the emotional part,  as fellow rider Jim and me, had to say our goodbyes to all the other riders and staff who were continuing on across the country to New Hampshire.  We were allowed to speak before the group before dinner.  In a short three and a half weeks I was able to make a number good friends.  We had a lot of laughs together, primarily at each others expense.  Very interesting people from all over the country and the world.  All good folks.  I wish them the best and look forward to charting their progress over the next several weeks as they accomplish their goals.

A service station that time has forgot, outside Hot Springs

The First  Prez from an interesting angle

The Money  Shot

Proof I made it up the steep climb

Taken from the SAG van, I'm second

Murray and Heather from Adele, Australia 

South Dakota

Sunday July 10th, Lusk WY to Hot Springs SD, 92 miles, 3300 feet of climbing

Again we left a little early because of heat.  Our first 45 miles were somewhat routine with a very gradual descent coupled with favorable winds.  However we subsequently took a right turn (at Mule Creek Junction) and began climbing into a stiff headwind which significantly slowed progress.  At the 56 mile mark we reached the South Dakota state line, my last state crossing for the trip.

The final 35 miles into Hot Springs were, well, hot, nearing 100 degrees.  We went straight for the DQ (where else?) for replenishment.  Hot Springs is a small town of about 4,000 in the southern Black Hills.  We had a buffet dinner at the local bowling alley across from the motel.   Interesting spot for cuisine.

East of Lusk WY before the SD line

Final state crossing for me.

Fellow rider Paul, a ABC Chicago  affiliate TV reporter 

A Century into Lusk

Saturday July 9th, Casper WY to Lusk WY, 106 miles, 3200 feet of climbing

We left Casper at 6:30 am in order to complete as much of the day's riding in the cooler morning temps.  It worked for the first 50 or so miles.  We passed through Douglas, the town where the Wyoming State Fair takes place.  I took a photo of a statue of a "jackalope"  a mythical creature which Wyoming has adopted as sort of a mascot- you see them all over.

A few miles out of Douglas the temps started to soar and by the time we hit the small town of Lusk, they were in the mid 90s.   I'm told they peaked late afternoon at 103.  Obviously staying hydrated was a priority and I utilized all the tricks in my bag to do so.  The eastern part of Wyoming is very sparsely populated.  The landscape was high desert with a few low density cattle farms.    Dinner was a pizza party at the motel.

Mythical Wyoming Jackalope

Longhorn steer near Douglas, WY

Downtown Lost Springs, WY, Population 4

Casper Off Day

Friday, July 8th, Off Day in Casper, WY

Today we had a well-earned off day in Casper.  To date, we have cycled 1,359 miles and climbed approximately 48,000 feet.  Only three more cycling days before I hit Rapid City and the end of my tour.  Part of me is saddened that I won't be part of the ongoing group headed to New Hampshire.  But I'll be happy to get home and see Kari and Drew (and Ben, who currently in a summer internship in Delaware).

We are staying at a Ramada about a half mile from downtown.  After doing my laundry and cleaning my bike,  a few of us headed on a one mile walk to the National Historic Trails Interpretive Center.  The interactive museum was a quite interesting presentation of  the history of the Oregon, California, Mormon and Pony Express Trails that all converged in modern day Casper before going their separate ways.

Overlooking Casper

National Historic Trails Interpretive Center

It's 120 miles from Riverton to Casper

Thursday July 7th, Riverton WY to Casper WY, 120 miles, 2900 feet of climbing

Today was the longest distance (120 miles) of the tour but not close to being the longest day.  I was able to average a surprising 18.4 miles per hour, thanks to tailwinds, and a straight, not too hilly route (almost exclusively on Route 26 East).  Actually the day started with headwinds and for the first time we utilized pace lines ( for drafting purposes) for an extended period of time.  However by the second SAG at 61 miles,  the winds were behind us and we no longer needed pace lines and were almost flying into Casper.  In addition to the winds we were very fortunate again with moderate temps peaking in the low 80s.  All in all a day that could have been extremely hard ended up being quite manageable.

There isn't a whole lot between Riverton  and Casper except for some low density ranching.  The highlight was viewing "Hell's Half Acre" at the 75 mile mark, a very deep ravine with caves and rock formations.  Native American tribes used the ravines to drive bison to their deaths during hunts.

We are staying in a Ramada Inn in Casper where we will have an off day tomorrow.  Casper is the second largest city in Wyoming with a population of 55,000.

Inside a small bar in the middle of nowhere Wyoming, where we stopped for our 2nd SAG stop

Hell's One-Half Acre

With Jim from Mass.

N. Platte River coming into Casper

Zooming into Riverton

Wednesday July 6th, Dubois WY to Riverton WY, 79 miles, 1850 feet of climbing

Today was advertised as an "active recovery" day after two hard cycling days.  And for the most part it was.  The ride had an overall 2000 feet descent in elevation spread over nearly 80 miles.  Coupled with a stiff wind that for the most part was a tailwind,  I was able to average 21 mph for the ride, a very brisk pace.  

Along the way I met a self-supported cyclist, Thomas Camero, from Hood River Oregon.  Thomas is part of the "Trans Am Bike Race" from Astoria OR to Yorktown VA.  Thomas will be turning 75 years old next week!  Truly amazing to see how much weight he is carrying on his bike.  He is happily the "Lanterne Rouge" the French term for a competitor in last place in a cycling race.  The term refers to the red lantern hung on the rear vehicle of a passenger railway train.

Today's terrain included a lot of red rocks mountains and at times reminded me of Southern Utah (Moab like).  The last 30 miles turned out to be a bit hairy as the winds started gusting in excess of 30 mph and were crosswinds, affecting the ability to control our bikes.  I was happy to reach the DQ in Riverton, a central WY town of about 10,000.  We had a nice dinner at a local Italian restaurant.

The author outside Dubois

Red rocks near Dubois WY

Self-supported cross country cyclist I met along the way, Thomas Camero, nearly 75 years old

The Tetons and the Continental Divide

Tuesday July 5th, Jackson WY to Dubois WY, 86 miles, 4700 feet of climbing

Another tough climbing day, but  very well rewarded.  We left Jackson and quickly picked up the bike path that took us into Teton National Park, affording us many spectacular views of the Tetons for 10-20 miles.  The Park lasted until the 32 mile mark.  After a few miles of relatively flat terrain we began another very challenging climb, long although fortunately not as steep as the Teton Pass.  The summit, Togwotee Pass, is also the Continental Divide, 9658 feet, the highest altitude I've ever cycled at.

The next 30 miles were essentially a "magic carpet ride" of downward slopes and tailwinds.  We are staying at the Stagecoach Motor Inn,  in the small town of Dubois, population of about 1000, a combination of quaint and western tourist trap.  Dinner was at the nearby Cowboy Cafe.

Tetons, a few miles outside Jackson WY

Myself cycling in the Tetons

Riders Jim from Mass,, Greg from Michigan, and myself,  happy after reaching Togwotee Pass (Continental Divide)

Scenery on the eastern descent of Togwotee Pass

A Memorable Fourth of July!

Monday July 4th, Idaho Falls, ID to Jackson, WY, 91 miles, 6800 feet of climbing

A lot to say about this 4th of July.  One of the riders was thoughtful enough to bring each of us a small American flag, which I secured to my saddle bag.  We all also wore our America By Bicycle red, white, and blue cycling jerseys.  As we exited Idaho Falls people were already setting up their lawn chairs for the annual parade.  We got a lot of waves.  Something really cool about being in  a small western town on the Fourth.

The second SAG stop, after a challenging enough climb at 60 miles, was at Pine Creek Summit, elevation 6764 feet, followed by a descent into the small town of Victor,  At the 72 mile mark we said goodbye to Idaho and entered Wyoming.  Then came the agony, a very steep 6.6 mile climb to the Teton Pass Summit.  The last 2.5 miles had a grade of 12-13 percent.  It turned out to be the hardest climb of my cycling life.  Between the grade, the altitude (8431 feet at the top) and the afternoon heat, and heavy holiday traffic, I was averaging about 4 miles an hour (barely keeping any forward momentum).  I took advantage of several turnouts to catch my breath but it was very hard starting again on the grade and with the lactic acid built up in my leg muscles.   Many took to walking the bike to the summit- absolutely no shame in that.  I am sure the scenery was spectacular but truthfully my brain and lungs didn't absorb enough oxygen to really notice much.

After the wind swept summit there was harrowing five mile technical descent.  I pumped the brakes constantly.  Without the  traffic and with a smooth surface I'm certain 50 mph was easily obtainable, but no way I was going to let loose today.  I was just glad to get down in one piece.  Another ten miles of cycling took us into the upscale, tony town of Jackson.   We found a DQ (of course) and regrouped.  Later,we had a nice dinner at a local BBQ restaurant.  At 10pm the town fireworks began. I listened from my hotel room, too exhausted to go out and even take a quick look.

First SAG stop

Wyoming State Line, riders Greg from Michigan, John from Florida, Liz from Mass.

Just below the Teton Pass Summit after the big climb, looking East

Idaho Falls

Sunday July 3rd, Pocatello ID to Idaho Falls ID, 66 miles, 700 feet of climbing

Today was another fast ride with mostly tailwinds (I'll take them every time I can).  The ride was mainly on back roads with again sometimes rough surfaces.  Very little climbing.  We started a little later than normal given the relatively short distance.  It did heat up a bit towards the end but all in all some good conditions.  We stayed at another Best Western- we are a long streak of of BWs at present. Idaho Falls lies right on the Snake River.

Tomorrow promises to be a long hard ride into Jackson WY on the Fourth of July.  It sets up to be possibly the most difficult ride of the tour with a some very steep climbs in the Tetons.

Falls in Idaho Falls with Mormon Temple in background

Mormon Temple in Idaho Falls with the Snake River in the foreground

Pocatello, ID

Saturday July 2nd, Burley ID to Pocatello ID, 85 miles, 2600 feet of climbing

Today was a fast ride with westerly tailwinds assisting the riders.  The mileage was spent on both Interstate 86 East and frontage roads on both sides of the interstate, the latter being sometimes rough with chip seal surface.  The landscape was primarily either agricultural or ranching.  Idaho farms are all irrigated- I've never seen as many sprinklers as in this State.  The ride did not have a lot of climbing until a tough uphill finish into Pocatello.  Pocatello is city of about 60,000, although we really didn't see much of the city proper.  It is home to Idaho State University.

With staff member Liz from Western Mass.

What I believe to be mule deer 

Burley, ID

Friday July 1st, Twin Falls ID to Burley ID, 42 miles, 1400 feet of climbing

Today was the shortest ride of the Tour.  I'd like to say the distance made for a very easy day, but the combination of eastern headwinds and a chip seal road surface still offered some challenges.  Coming out of Twin Falls we took an optional four mile round trip to view Shoshone Falls.  From there we road back roads more or less parallel to I-84.  The land was irrigated agricultural with a number of potato crops.  We were able to get in ahead of the heat (and our rooms from being ready) so most of the group had lunch at a Mexican restaurant adjacent to the Best Western where we are staying.  Burley is a small city of about 10,000 in Southern Idaho.

Shoshone Falls near Twin Falls ID

Potato farm between Twin Falls and Burley

Near Burley

Twin Falls, ID

Thursday June 30th, Mountain Home ID to Twin Falls ID, 97 miles, 3200 feet of climbing

Today was a tough day, probably, for me at least,  the hardest of the tour so far.  We left earlier than normal to try and beat the heat.  My group left at 6:30am, while an earlier group left at 5:45am.  The ride started well enough with a decent tailwind.  However after the second SAG at about 60 miles out conditions quickly got worse.  The temperature rose into the low to mid 90s and we also had to now negotiate a pretty stiff 15mph headwind,  There also were a few moderate climbs.  Road conditions were prinarily a chip seal road surface which makes for a rougher ride.  All these conditions conspired to make the last 35 miles very slow and exhausting .  Fellow rider Jim and I made it to a Subway at the 87 mile mark and were able to regroup for the last several miles.  We finally made it to the Best Western in Twin Falls.

Coming into Twin Falls is quite spectacular as you cross the Snake River Canyon over the Perrine Bridge which is almost 500 feet over the river.  This is near the site where Evel Knieval tried and failed to jump the Snake River Canyon on a rocket powered motorcycle in 1974.  The town has a population of 44,000.  We had dinner at the local Golden Corral, surprisingly good in my humble opinion.

On the way to Twin Falls

Perrine Bridge over the Snake River Canyon from the Twin Falls side.

Snake River Canyon from the Perrine Bridge

Heat

Wednesday June 29th, Boise ID to Mountain Home ID, 53 miles, 1600 feet of climbing

Mercifully today was a relatively short day of 53 miles.  The objective was to get to the hotel before the afternoon heat.  Mountain Home, our destination, was forecasting a high of 103 degrees!  I got to hotel at about 1 pm.  The ride from Boise to Mountain Home was not spectacular, with mainly wide open high desert brush.  We rode again on I-84 for a few miles.  Mountain Home is a small town with a population of about 14,000.  There is an Air Force base several miles from town,  I am a bit anxious about the ride tomorrow, 97 miles to Twin Falls , as the oppressive heat is expected to continue.

Wide open desert brush between Boise and Mountain Home